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Collecting Churches

Posted by Anne Born on January 11, 2015
Posted in: Churches and Cemeteries, New York. 4 Comments

I collect churches.

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I know I’ve said I don’t collect things, but I do. I collect churches. Inspired by my art history professor at Columbia who set out to map all the Gothic churches in northern France, I now need to visit churches when I travel and to photograph them the way other people take pictures of their traveling companions. I find, when I get home, that I have a half dozen pictures of my children, my family, my friends, but I have dozens of shots of arches, vaulted ceilings, galleries, and, my personal favorite, flying buttresses. I don’t even operate under the pretext of “Stand over here, honey, and I’ll get you in front of the church,” but rather, “You go on ahead while I get this shot of the church.”

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This seems cold. The buildings will be there, for the most part, but do I actually lose a few more happy moments with my children in order not to miss the way the light streams through the clerestory? This is my real passion, or one of them, at least. I get completely wrapped up, I don’t want to leave, I need one more angle, one more view, and I even asked a security guard once if he would look the other way while I climbed the scaffolding in the back of the church to get a closer shot of one of the sculptures over the doorway. He declined. I didn’t get the shot.

Like a lot of fascinations, obsessions, if you will, when I write about this, it sounds pretty loopy. But when I turn the corner or come around the plaza or make that last curve on the train and a medieval church fills my view, I can’t get my camera out fast enough. I thrill at the site of towers and portals and I marvel that medieval churches were built by hand and simple tools and that
they have stood in that space for a thousand years.

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So how do I know I am getting this across to my children? Even after years of visiting cities and towns all over France, Spain, and most recently, Ireland, I’m not completely sure I have translated this craziness to them. I take them to Paris and we go straight to Notre Dame, sometimes right from the airport. In fact, I actually have My Spot which means, whenever you don’t know where I am in Paris, you can pretty much count on the fact that I am on my spot, just in front of the cathedral, to the right, sitting on one of the stone blocks in the front. And the real craziness is that I know full well from being in all those art history classes that the facade of Notre Dame, pretty much the whole thing, is a product of the mid-19th and not the 13th century. I don’t care.

There are a couple of nice shots where my children strayed into my view finder. I really like those. Those shots probably won’t make their way into picture frames that I have now started to put up on my walls, but they remind me that this is one of the random things that I can give to my children. They won’t inherit much in terms of finance or property but they will know how
much I loved, … churches.

July 2014 373 (2)

When we go out to see a church, and we have seen quite a few together, it’s my chance to tell them the stories that have captured my attention for so many years. I can tell them how Gothic arches were invented and how people reacted to stained glass when they saw it for the first time, how a Roman wall was destroyed to build the chancel, or how towers were used as defensive locations. And then, maybe they will be able to tell their children, “You know, my mom loved this stuff,” and that will
be really wonderful. They probably just don’t want me to know they were listening all these years.

That’s it, isn’t it?


Burgos Cathedral, Burgos, Spain

Real Colegiata, Roncesvalles, Spain

St. Vincent Ferrer, NYC

Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, Spain

Saving Grace

Posted by Anne Born on November 22, 2014
Posted in: New York. 1 Comment

When I had my first child, I didn’t know very much about children and unlike lots of first time moms, I didn’t have any family around me to fill in the blanks. I took everything at face value and proceeded like I knew what I was doing, hoping everything would be just fine. In fact, I did, like a lot of first time moms, lots of dumb things. I assumed, for instance that everyone I know would be sitting by their mailboxes waiting for the photo of the month I sent out to them. Each month, I would prop up the kid, take dozens of photos, and send them out to the Club. What was I thinking?

The Kid was pretty cool, all in all, and a great companion to me. I took her everywhere to the point where the New York Times sent out a photographer and a writer to cover my story. Doesn’t everyone bring The Kid to dress rehearsals of the Philharmonic, trending Upper East Side bruncheries, or the Metropolitan Museum of Art? I wasn’t going to stop going there myself just because I had The Kid, so she came along with me. And then, when she was about 18 months old, she started teaching herself to read by sounding out the letters on ads in store windows. And I was very proud. Since I knew nothing about children, I thought everyone did that at 18 months.

When I started to look at pre-schools, I decided I would just let The Kid do her thing in the interviews and I would see how she stacked up to the other kids. This was the first time she would be exposed to other children on any consistent basis and the experience was eye-opening. We went to interview at a Montessori school that I’d heard about. It was a bright, colorful place but I found the artwork disturbing. It wasn’t that the images were of disturbing things, but that every single, last picture was completely and entirely identical to the next except they were signed by different children. The Kid sat down to replicate the prototype and missed a key element. She was told to draw a snowman just like the model but she didn’t include the blue scarf, so the teacher prompted her by asking if she’d forgotten something in the drawing. The Kid looked at her and said, “Eyebrows?” And then she didn’t get in.

We went to a standard private school she liked and was immediately accepted. She loved the classroom, the children, the teachers, and the routine. At first. Her drawings were simple at first, then more complex, adding trees, sun, clouds, more people, more houses. There was an obvious progression from simple to complex and I thought everything was fine until I went for the parent meeting and they told me about The Kid and the puzzle she had solved that morning. It was the most complicated puzzle in the classroom and The Kid had completed it in just a few minutes, something they had never seen before. I thought, that’s great, but what does she do tomorrow? They told me, she could re-solve the same puzzle again and again because that was all they had for her. I realized their modus operandi was simply to pull everyone to the center, by bringing up the slower students and slowing down the really capable ones. We started looking for another school.

Kindergarten interviews are a little different that preschool ones because they rely more on social interaction. The Kid was tested for a small gifted program at a New York City public school and she scored in the top three percentile and was accepted. I was apprehensive about sending The Kid to a public school because I had never attended a public school myself and had no idea what to do first. But like my other parenting efforts, I decided to take an active role and volunteered to write and edit the program’s newsletter. I could keep an eye on The Kid and the school at the same time. I expected the worst and found the best, the best approach to learning, the best teachers, the best kids, and the perfect place for The Kid.

The Kid’s first teacher was a woman I will call Miss Case. She was serious, friendly, interesting, and, as it turned out, God’s very gift to teachers. She had an extreme math ability that suited her precocious charges and she sent home homework none of the parents could do. I remember calling around the phone tree trying to find anyone older than five who could master the mathematical concepts Miss Case was teaching. She took them on school trips to museums so they could see patterns and shapes they would discuss back at school. The children in this classroom couldn’t wait to get there in the morning and they didn’t want to leave in the afternoon.

The only thing better than Miss Case in Kindergarten was when the parents found out she was being reassigned to the Fifth Grade just as our children were about enter the Fifth Grade. These gifted kids had been given their own gift. They had been given the chance to reconnect with Miss Case and they were thrilled. She took the extraordinary concepts she had taught them five years earlier and spun them into even more intricate patterns and shapes that they could take on to Middle School, high school, and college.

The Kid became a civil engineer and in so many ways, I thank this one New York City public school teacher. Miss Case was underpaid certainly but worth her weight in gold to The Kid. If we had stayed at that lovely private school, The Kid never would have felt that her crazy math ability was in any way normal and even kind of cool. In the public school gifted program, she was surrounded by children who challenged her and teachers who could keep her busy and working.

Right now, if you asked me to pay more taxes for the benefit of the teacher my daughter had in 1991, I would do so with tears in my eyes, tears of gratitude to the teacher who saved my kid. So much is written and argued about the kids in the lowest percentile, but rarely do the writers understand what it is to have a gifted child in that top percentile. This public school was a life raft to the two of us. My standard explanation to people who think gifted programs cater to the elite is this: it’s like giving two children the task of washing the dishes. The smart child will use hot water, plenty of soapy suds, they will scrub the Dickens out of each dish, dry them completely, and put them away in neat rows. The gifted kid will find a way to get the smart kid to do it for them.

I am still proud of my kid. She solves the Rubik’s cube in under a minute.

Clocks Take a Step Back, So Take a Step Forward

Posted by Anne Born on November 1, 2014
Posted in: Uncategorized. 1 Comment

Clocks Take a Step Back, So Take a Step Forward.

This Weekend’s Bay Area Cemetery Tours

Posted by Anne Born on November 1, 2014
Posted in: Churches and Cemeteries, Uncategorized. Leave a comment

This Weekend’s Bay Area Cemetery Tours.

Creeping In and Out of Cemeteries

Posted by Anne Born on October 29, 2014
Posted in: Churches and Cemeteries. 4 Comments

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I’ve finally convinced my children that it can be both informative and restorative to visit cemeteries. Is this a major accomplishment and testimony to my superlative parenting skills? Yes, most definitely.

My daughter and I paid a brief visit to Michiana over the weekend. Michiana is that difficult area that is part Michigan and part Indiana and completely difficult to explain to New Yorkers. You fly through Chicago or Detroit and change planes to South Bend but my family didn’t live in Indiana even though I went to high school there and my dad worked there. So, sometimes I say I’m going to Chicago – lots of people have heard of Chicago. Other times, I say I’m just going home and then try to field the questions about where exactly that is. But if you grow up in this no-man’s land, you get really used to moving back and forth over the state line so often it tends to blur. It’s Michiana and it’s where my family is.

This trip we decided – yes, we – to visit as many cemeteries as we had time. We started out at Notre Dame (pictured above) to visit the graves of my twice great grandparents who came to South Bend in 1880 to help build the first Catholic university in America. They are both buried here in a cemetery on campus that used to be the parish graveyard,

I stepped out of the car to visit their graves, leaving the window on the driver’s side open. When I got back, there were two leaves on my seat. I took that as a sign.

October Cemeteries 050

The next day, we left early to find a cemetery farther south near Culver, Indiana where my 4th great grandfather and his wife are buried. This was a beautiful, very old cemetery but it was in wonderful condition and their stones were quite beautiful. I took some photos and got back into the car and saw the trunk light “open” light was on. My daughter assured me I had somehow pushed the trunk button and she got out to close it and we drove on.

October Cemeteries 057

The next graveyard was in Argos where my great grandparents and their siblings are buried. I have a twice great grandfather who was a Union soldier and his gravestone was donated to his family by the US government. There’s a metal marker identifying him as a veteran too. While I was standing there, a ladybug landed on the back of my jacket.

I took that as a sign too.

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Our next stop was at a nearby cemetery in Plymouth where the pioneers of my father’s family are buried. The stones are broken and very difficult to read, but I have the cemetery records and can identify the occupants of each of the plots in the farthest and oldest section. When I visited this site a few years ago, the cemetery officer who took my phone call was kind enough to post bike flags on the graves so we could know which were our family’s graves. And he took and sent me photos which was a tremendous kindness.

When I got back in the car, again the trunk light came on and again my daughter closed it, reminding me not to hit the trunk button and we went into town to shop a bit and get lunch. We found ourselves in the midst of the annual Halloween parade with kids and grownups alike in costume. It was wonderful – not at all scary. Just wonderful.

The next day, we stopped at the cemetery where my mother is buried and laid small stones on her grave to let people know someone had been there, someone cared. I found the grave of one of my best friends who died in the 8th grade and placed a stone there as well. It seemed the thing to do.

But it was only on our way out of town, back to the airport, that I needed actually to open the trunk to put something inside. To get into the trunk – triggering that warning light – I had to pull up hard on a lever near the bottom of the driver’s side door. This action releases the lid and you can get things in and out – but it’s just not a button you could graze with your jacket. It’s a handle. And you pull it back until you hear the trunk lid pop open.

I think I have to take that as a sign too. Creepy? Oh yeah. But wonderful? Most definitely. The spirits are with us these days.

Rites of Paysage: Autumn in Quercy

Posted by Anne Born on October 20, 2014
Posted in: Uncategorized. Leave a comment

This is a must read blog – wonderful insight into living in southwest France.

Emily Conyngham's avatarOtherwise Travel

Autumn has been warm and sunny here in the Barguelonne valley. The landscape in this part of southwest France, lower Quercy, embraces me in just the right way. Have you ever found yourself somewhere you have never been before, but felt at home, centered, or just right? It was love at first sight, and walking around this “paysage” has deepened my appreciation of this beautiful part of France.

The topography of the area features limestone ridges and plateaus that run parallel to each other, divided by fertile river valleys. Green cups of heavily cultivated fields are tucked into the folds, like thousands of greenhouses. These “serres” are unique growing regions, each with its particular sun exposure and soil characteristics. In viticulture that’s called terroir, which I discussed in my post about a local vineyard.  The pastoral ambiance is everywhere, but with remarkable variation.

On Saturday a friend invited me out hunting. A native son…

View original post 555 more words

The Communion of Saints

Posted by Anne Born on October 4, 2014
Posted in: Churches and Cemeteries. 2 Comments

My three favorite holidays are Halloween, All Saints Day, and All Souls Day, which is also known as the Day of the Dead. I have to come to appreciate these days more in recent years for a number of reasons, not the least of which is my new-found hobby: family history research. This hobby has brought me in and out of a dozen wonderful cemeteries since 2010, both here in the US and in Ireland, and through these visits, I find myself now coming around to an understanding of a single line in a prayer I learned in the second grade.

“I believe in the communion of saints.”

I have recited these lines, from memory, in complete oblivion all my life. They are nestled in and among some lovely words that I memorized in grade school, along with the Pledge of Allegiance and the Girl Scout Oath. The line never meant anything to me other than a suggestion of a certain reverence for the holy men and women who have been identified by the Catholic Church as saints. These are the people, all dead, who have made a spiritual impact on the living. They are remembered by their followers, their neighbors, their town.

But I have always thought of saints as separate from me, different from me, and better than me. Isn’t that why we call them saints? They work miracles, they were strong, or devoted, or saintly in ways to which I can only aspire. In my dreams, I could be like a saint.

I visited the cemetery just a few weeks ago to see where my mother is buried. It’s a small town cemetery that I have always had a fondness for because I recognize most of the names on the headstones. These are the graves of the mothers and fathers of the children I went to school with. It’s not a particularly fancy place. There aren’t any impressive monuments or large mausoleums, but my best friend from the eighth grade is there, so every time I would drive by, I’d think of her and smile, remembering how we spent time sledding in the winter or sharing bags of popcorn at the local movie house.

When I started collecting information about my father’s family, I located a document that listed that very cemetery as the final resting place of his great aunt and her husband. I found their graves and added photos of the headstone to my family tree, all the while thinking how nice it would be if someone had photos of them so I could get to know them a little better. My aunt died in 1938 so I considered the exercise a lost cause.

Then, I thought, it was time I left some flowers as a tribute to my slim connection to this woman and her husband. I had given up the idea of every knowing what she looked like and I knew very little about her, but I decided that pink carnations might be a fitting tribute. The color looked great against the grey stone, so I took another photo and left. The next day, I was looking around for old photos of the town and I stumbled upon a collection online of the lake resort my aunt and uncle had owned where so many of my relatives had gone to dance. The photos were labeled “grandmother.” It was her.

It would be easy for me to say that her spirit led me to find this marvelous online collection of photos of her and her family. I could say there was some creepy force that motivated me to go to this particular site, looking for photos of the town and finding the very thing I had looked for, but that’s not what this is about, I don’t think.

Slowly, I am coming around to something my cousin said when I told her what had happened, how I had left the pink flowers and suddenly found the photos. I had given up ever finding images of this aunt and now, in a single flash, I had a dozen of them. She said simply, “I believe in the communion of saints.”

And there we had it. Finally, and without realizing it, I had embraced the communion of saints. This communion is why I am drawn to cemeteries. This communion is why I find cathedrals and churchyards to be so peaceful and so calming. It’s much less about the Church and that prayer that I recited for so long and more about identifying the immutable connection between the living and dead. The departed souls we celebrate on the Day of the Dead are a real tangible part of this more abstract notion of a communion. We are all bound together by experience, by family, by loss, or by joy. We are knitted together with similar threads and in that moment when I am standing in the midst of the dead, whether it is in that lovely small town graveyard, or an antique churchyard on a hill overlooking the Irish Sea, or the civic cemetery next to my bus stop in Manhattan, I can feel it.

The dead cannot judge you or hurt you. All that remains is the communion.

I believe in the communion of saints.

If you would like a sneak peek at my next book, it’s here on Wattpad, a feature in Non-Fiction.

Imagine Sanctuary

Posted by Anne Born on September 20, 2014
Posted in: Churches and Cemeteries. 1 Comment

July 2014 742

Imagine a place where you can be alone with your thoughts. A place to get away from whatever’s bothering you. I’m still interviewing churches and I am finding some very interesting things about these places. I am fascinated now more by the people than the architecture.

To be fair, it was the architecture that brought me to this quest in the first place – not looking for spirituality really or the answer to The Big Questions, but rather I was looking for galleries, stained glass, chancels, transepts, vaulted ceilings, and clerestories. I’ve studied churches for a very long time and it’s comforting that I can remember the terms and the dates of the different bits that go into Gothic and Romanesque churches.

And now? I want to know who is sharing my quest. My daughter told me when we were in Spain in July that it’s the women who go to church. The men go to the parks. And she’s so right. In churches in Spain, you will be surrounded by women of a certain age, all praying together, singing together, and chatting or gossiping together afterword. And the men are all catching up with their friends as they watch children chase balls and dogs while the mothers chase after them.

So whenever I find the opposite is true, that men are in church or older women on benches in the park, I like to watch them. I know both are public places, where anyone can sit and sort, and I also realize that most people keep walking, not noticing who is sitting where. But these people are all characters in my day’s drama and even if we never interact, they are still a part.


If you would like a sneak peek at my next book, it’s here on Wattpad, a feature in Non-Fiction.

 

It’s Finally September 12th

Posted by Anne Born on September 14, 2014
Posted in: New York. Leave a comment

photo 2

I have always thought that we were all attacked on September 11.

All Americans were not working in the buildings, or flying on those planes, or so close to the falling debris that we all had to run for our lives. But we turned a corner that morning and it forced us to leave normal far behind us. As a New Yorker, I felt that I would never be able to go back downtown because I would see the new real life there and I wanted my clock for this area of Manhattan to stop on September 10.

ftn3

But my friend sings in a lovely choir that was giving a free outdoor concert last week on the plaza near the 9/11 Museum and I decided to go. It was a beautiful late summer, early fall night and the concert gave me an excuse to stay outside just a bit longer, enjoying the music. I finally felt, after 13 years, that I could visit what I still call Ground Zero and not be met with the terrible feeling of loss that had stopped me from going there until now.

ftn1

The 9/11 museum is quite beautiful and the surrounding plaza is excellent, but for me, the key difference in this trip downtown was the time of day. The handful of times I had been there before, it was daylight and the whole space was filled with tourists and office workers coming and going, everyone snapping photos and eating snacks. In the evening though, especially on a Friday night, the space empties out considerably and the buildings are all lit after dark.

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Everything is best seen at night. The names of the people lost in the attack are all lit from below and the water moving down the walls into the pool makes an amazing sound. The office buildings, including the new Freedom Tower, are also lit after dark and the effect is so peaceful, so quieting, so calm. It’s the stuff that makes the skyline so spectacular except here you are, and you can enjoy it close up.

photo 1

Peace is an elusive thing. I wonder sometimes if we are only meant to experience it for a moment so it becomes our Holy Grail, the thing we keep looking for and never find. I know that as much as I prefer the day before September 11th to the days after, I am finally comfortable going there and I have found my own way to understand what happened and what happens next.

It’s time to go back downtown. I recommend that if you want to visit the site and the 9/11 Museum, go downtown in the evening. The museum closes at 9:00 p.m.


Photos by me

To Laugh

Posted by Anne Born on August 11, 2014
Posted in: Uncategorized. 1 Comment

I started to write about two young girls
in a black and white photograph;
they are sitting together on a porch.

It is Easter and a baby sits between them,
a full woven basket on his lap,
long sleeves, long skirts, button shoes.

They are carefree and breezy,
and hopelessly demure.
And I think of my Easters, too.

Dressing up for spring,
taking photos of everyone
standing in front of new flowers.

But I am distracted and the photo fades
and I can only think of you now,
the way you knew how to make me laugh.

It’s a funny thing all these years later
that I can’t remember much more than this:
You made me feel safe enough to laugh.

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